It’s time to start sewing your beautiful Samantha dress. In this sewalong we will be making Version 2, which has the longer skirt, the collar and the separate tie belt. If you are making Version 1, make sure you watch our video sewalong here.
To sew the Samantha dress you only need a sewing machine with a ballpoint needle, suitable for stretch fabrics. If you have an overlocker (serger), you can use that as well, but it is optional. In this sewalong, we will be using an overlocker to sew most seams, but in the video sewalong we made the entire dress only with a sewing machine and a zigzag stitch, just to show you that it is possible.
And one more important thing before we start: the seam allowance is included in all your pattern pieces and it is 1 cm (or 3/8 inch)
Making the darts
First order of business is to sew the darts. Your dress has 4 darts in total, one on each front bodice piece and two in the back bodice piece to provide extra shaping. (If you haven’t sewn darts before, there are many much more detailed tutorials online. We recommend this one by Lisa Comfort).
Transfer all your markings for the 4 darts on the front and back bodice pieces.
To sew the dart, fold your fabric right sides together, using the central line as a guide. Match the dart lines as best as you can while putting them one on top of the other. Pin them together along the lines. Stitch the dart along the marked line, starting from the edge of the fabric and finishing at the tip. Don’t back tack at the end, instead tie the threads in a knot by hand.
Press your darts always towards the side seams of the corresponding bodice piece.
Sewing the shoulder seams
Now, we are going to attach the bodice pieces at the shoulders seams. The Samantha dress has grown-on sleeves, which means that there is no actual sleeve insertion. You will sew the shoulder seams all the way until the sleeve hem and you are done! Here’s how to do that:
Place your front bodice on top of the back bodice, right sides together. Pin the right shoulder seam all the way down to the sleeve hem, using the notches as a guide.
Stitch with a narrow zigzag or using your overlocker. Repeat for the other sleeve.
And that’s all for today. Join us next week for the next part of our sewalong, ‘Making the neckline binding and collar’